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photo credit: JOE MARINARO

I’ve always had a thing for sheepy yarns. You know the kind I mean. They smell earthy, feel a bit like lanolin. They maybe even have a bit of straw left in them (Spinners call this “VM” for “vegetable matter”). When I lived in Maryland I was surrounded, north and south, by amazing fiber festivals. Now, here in Cordova, I’m not. I don’t get to make yearly expeditions to see and pet sheep and alpacas. In the absence of the festivals (like the New York Sheep and Wool Festival in Rhinebeck that I just missed this past weekend), I’ve been knitting a lot with these artisanal yarns.

photo credit: Hav n Knit Lover

I love that they often have a story–the farm where the sheep were raised and the mill where the wool is prepared becomes part of the yarn’s entrancing qualities. Often, you’re buying these yarns directly from their maker at fairs and markets, so you cut out the waste of distribution, and you can hear the yarn’s story firsthand.

So, I love what these yarns are: rustic, earthy, sheepy.  I also like what they’re not: mass-produced, machine-washable, each skein identical. The lack of mass production and distribution leads to some design difficulties. My new designs come about in one of two ways. Either I consciously set out to create a new pattern for my line or for another publication, or, I’m making something for myself and decide later to turn that into a design. If I start out for publication, then the availability of the yarn is one of the first things I consider. Will people be able to find this yarn–is the color still being made? How much will it cost for someone to make a whole sweater out of this yarn?

photo credit: Hav n Knit Lover

Lately, I’ve been working on two sweaters. Both are knit in an artisanal wool that’s only available in the United States in one shop–it happens to be here, in tiny Cordova, Alaska. Dotty, who owns The Net Loft, our amazing little wool shop, has a 20+ year relationship with a small New Zealand farm and mill called The Little Wool Company. The yarns she buys from Anna Gratton, the fiber artist who creates them, are wonderful corriedale blends that are soft and long-wearing and make sweaters perfect for life in Alaska–or life in any winter climate.

So I need to make a decision. If I’m to release patterns for these sweaters, do I need to re-knit them in yarns that are more commercially available? I think that might defeat part of my purpose of using artisanal yarns in the first place. I want to encourage the use of yarns from small producers, not just promote some specific yarns.

I think I can compromise. I already write my patterns so that they’re not yarn-dependent, but that doesn’t mean that any yarn will work for any pattern. It was the qualities of the yarn in the first place that led me to these particular designs. However, if I swatch in various yarns that have similar qualities, and demonstrate how to adapt to them, you, as the knitter will feel comfortable adapting the pattern to different yarns, and choosing yarns that will work for you.

I’m thrilled that these types of yarns are getting more attention these days. Jared Flood’s new Shelter line and companies like the Imperial Stock Ranch, and even larger yarn manufacturers are extolling the virtues of supporting local farms and small mills. It seems like more and more knitters are attending fiber festivals and meeting the sheep, the farmers and the yarn makers. And why not? Our crafting materials deserve careful attention. Consider the number of hours put into crocheting or knitting a sweater. It doesn’t make sense to choose materials simply based on what someone else used.

It’s difficult to know what a yarn is like, and how it’s used in a garment, if you’re just looking at a picture on a screen. If you’ve never knit with something yourself, you don’t know how it’s going to work at a particular gauge or in a particular stitch pattern. All the more reason, I think, to use yarns you have access to, and can touch and feel rather than simply buying the yarn used in a pattern.

photo credit: Lori_NY

In order to make yarn substitutions intelligently, you need to know some things about the yarn. There are the things that are usually printed on a yarn label: fiber content, meters per gram, suggested needle size. This information only hints at what a yarn can be used for. Other details that might be helpful are: number of plies, method of spinning (worsted, so the yarn is smooth, dense, great for texture, or woolen, so the yarn is lofty, warm, matte).

The yarn I’m using from The Little Wool Company would probably be called “heavy worsted.” It’s got three plies, and the recommended gauge is 4.5 stitches per inch, which gives a solid “winter-weight” fabric. But, I found by swatching that this yarn puffs incredibly when blocked so it fills in any spaces around it. I tried knitting it on US10 needles, then 10.5, and finally ended up with size 11, knitting at 3 sts per inch. The bulky gauge finally gave me the soft drape and hand I was looking for, and I loved the fuzzy halo that appeared in the yarn after it was washed and blocked. There’s no standardized way to describe the quality of a yarn when it’s knitted. Gauge says nothing about drape–so If I said, try for a gauge of 3 sts/inch, then knitters would probably choose bulky yarns and end up with sweaters much heavier than the sample I’m creating.

I would much rather you choose the yarn you want to knit with, and choose what gauge you like with YOUR yarn. All this is a rather long-winded way of saying I want to continue writing patterns that are yarn-independent, but I also plan to provide more information about the qualities of the yarns I’m using that will help you decide what to use in your patterns. It might help if I knew what details would help you. I know sometimes you choose a pattern first, and sometimes you choose a yarn first, but what kind of information do you WISH you had when you are choosing or substituting yarns?

photo credit: JuditK

One of the fun parts of having had a fiber arts blog for over five years (!) is that I’m regularly asked to review books, yarn and tools. I used to actively seek out this kind of writing when I first got started because it helped me develop my writing chops and develop an audience. Now, I rarely go looking for things to review. The opportunities present themselves to me. I receive books unsolicited. Sometimes I review books not because they were sent to me, but because I’ve bought them, and I really like them. I write about yarn and tools mainly in the process of using them for projects instead of writing specific reviews.

I thought you might like to know a little about my book review process. I don’t review every book that I receive. I don’t get compensated for reviewing books, and I am not obligated to review a book just because it’s been sent to me. I don’t typically review knitting and crochet books I dislike. I don’t see the point. It seems like drawing people’s attention to poor work, and that wastes everyone’s time. At the same time, I don’t have to love every detail of a book to blog about it. In fact, I see my role as providing my true opinion of the books I take the time to read and review.

photo credit: lizzieerwood

I like to talk about the projects in the book, and if possible show pictures. I also like to talk about how the book is put together and how that might affect it’s ease of use to the reader. I love charts and schematics, so I’ll typically mention whether a book has them or not. I’m a geek about things like type and layout, so if a book’s production strikes me, I’ll mention that too. Sometimes a gorgeous book has really boring projects, or interesting and striking projects have been produced in a way that doesn’t let them live up to their full potential. That kind of thing interests me, and I’ll talk about it.

Often, in this very small world of knitting and crochet design, I’ll know the author of the book personally. More than likely, I’ve had some kind of interaction with her online even if we haven’t met at a trade show or conference. In that case, I like to make that clear to my readers as well, so that there’s no reason to think I’m disguising a bias. We’re part of a wonderful community of designers and authors, and we all like to support each other. With things like blogs, Facebook and Twitter, we now have more ways to do that, and I love being part of that community.

I’m interested to know what you as crocheters, knitters and readers think of book reviews on blogs. Do you find them helpful or interesting? Or would you rather find out about new books in other ways? What do you like to see in a book review?

Coming up, I’m going to be reviewing Shirley Paden’s Knitewear Design Workshop. I’ve had this book for a while, but I wanted to really digest it before I talked about it. I had some fun with it this weekend while I was designing a sweater.

photo credit: Kirstea

When’s the last time you fixed something instead of throwing it away? I have a love-hate relationship with mending. I can’t stand to get rid of clothes just because they need repair, (so much of our wardrobe comes from thrift stores–I’d hate to end the cycle of re-use) but mending is always something I say I’ll get to later. So as a result, I usually have a nice big pile of socks with holes, jeans needing patches, etc. (The last time I mentioned mending on the blog was back in 2007. In that case, James was mending my jeans.)

Last week, I decided to clear the decks. (My pile wasn’t too big because my mom whittled away at it when she was visiting this summer–Yay, Mom!) I took care of the little projects that were piled up, and then, as I was doing laundry, I began to notice other clothes that needed repair. Instead of making a new pile, I sat down to fix them right away. “Well, that was easy.” I told myself after I’d finished patching a pair of jeans. It only took a few minutes. I used an iron-on patch, but whip-stitched the edges because those patches tend to come unglued after a few washings.

My laundry room also happens to be the storage area for all my craft stuff, so I have mending supplies right at hand there. If you put off fixing things like I do, it might help to have a small repair kit near where you fold clothes.

My mending basket isn’t particularly tidy, but I’m sentimental about it. It’s my grandmother’s basket, and she got it in Okinawa when she was there visiting my aunt and uncle in the 1960s. It’s full of her old wooden spools of thread, plus needles, patches and other bits and pieces.

Nearby on the yarn shelf, I have scissors, pins, glue, darning egg, etc. in these admittedly overstuffed little fabric boxes I found at Target. I’m hoping that I’ll keep up with the mending, and that last week’s repair frenzy wasn’t just an attempt to procrastinate about doing something else.

The Crochet Dude has a new book! Drew Emborsky has been so busy lately launching a pattern line and a series of branded tools. He is rocking the crochet world and it’s always fun to see his latest endeavor.

This new book, Crochet It. Love It. Wear It! from Leisure Arts has 13 patterns, most of them garments. Drew is a master of texture. Take a look at Saugatuck Summer, a boat neck blouse that uses post stitches to give stretch and shaping as well as textural interest:

The book has schematics, but no charts. Most patterns are listed as being for intermediate to advanced crocheters. Though there are only 13 patterns, Leisure Arts has produced this as a perfect-bound paperback, rather than a booklet. The large 8 1/2 x 11″ format allows for big type and full page pictures. The photo styling is a little old-fashioned with heavily made-up models photographed on a gray background. Nonetheless, these are projects that will certainly make crocheters want to pick up the hook.

Perhaps my favorite garment in the book is Laurie, named for Drew’s best friend.

The sideways stitching and ballet wrap-style is classic and wearable. The open fabric looks like it has nice drape, too. Drew isn’t afraid to take risks, some of the garments, like the Heperas bustier dress verges on costume and looks awfully fun to crochet and to wear–if you’re daring. Quintissential, the black evening dress is elegant and dramatic, and would be quite an undertaking to crochet.

If you’re already a fan of The Crochet Dude, you’re not going to want to miss this latest collection. If you’re new to his designs, you may very well find a must-make project in Crochet It. Love It. Wear It!

Do you ever have periods where all you do is think about working on projects but nothing gets made? Well, I’m on vacation, so I don’t have any deadline knitting, but since I made a swatch on the airplane, I haven’t picked up needles or hook. Of course, I have been dreaming up projects. The kids and I are at our little cottage in northern Wisconsin.

It’s peaceful and quiet (if you don’t count kid noises), but being a single parent even on vacation, I’m not getting much time to sit and relax, and by the end of the day when they’re in bed, somehow I don’t feel like doing anything but reading my book. (I’m on a mini-break from schoolwork too).

So during the day, even though I’m not crocheting or knitting, things filter in for later reflection. A scene or a pattern might catch my eye. Sometimes, if I’ve got my camera, I might take a picture. But I don’t go out to photograph stuff for designs. I’m happy to wait until they appear.

There are wonderful stones here, and I’ve had a habit of collecting them since I was a little girl. They’re always prettier when they are underwater, but I can’t help keeping them anyway. I love the ripples in the water caused by the stones and how the light catches them.

Sometimes, it’s just colors I see–like the pinks and yellows and greens on the crab apple tree on the lawn.

I thought about harvesting some crab apples–we’ve never been here so late in August before when they’re actually ripe. But since I’m traveling, I can’t really make jam or anything else. The kids have eaten a few, and say they’re tasty.

In my head, I’ve started knitting a scarf. I bought some pretty striped kitchen cotton (it’s hot here, I can”t think of wearing wool). I’m thinking of basing it on The Heidi Stitch. Or, maybe I won’t. I’d like a little cotton shawl to wear at the wedding I’m going to this weekend. Probably I won’t make anything. It’s been that kind of week.

So I’m taking the rest of the trip to recharge my creative batteries, and soon I’ll be surrounded by family at my cousin’s wedding. Then home for the start of school for kids and me. How are you enjoying the end of the summer?

We’re having a rare sunny day, so I’m going to post quickly and get Outside! This Sunday I got to go to an open house held by members of a woodcut printmaking class here in Cordova. Artist Andrea Rich came to town to teach a week long workshop and I think 6 or 8 members of the community signed up. The results were beautiful and diverse. And as different as all the prints were, nearly all were inspired by Cordova’s beautiful scenery, flora, and fauna. Here’s one student, Michael putting the finishing touches on her final prints.

Each woodcut is truly a limited edition. As you make a pass with each color, you’re cutting away more wood from the print, changing the block permanently. So, you need to choose the length of the edition before you begin. The students made 12 prints of their woodcuts. They printed both by hand and with a press. Michael is using a hand-printing process above.

I’m always impressed by the variety of interests expressed by people here in Cordova. I don’t know if it’s my imagination, but it seems like Cordovans are more willing than folks elsewhere to make time for creative passions. It’s one of the things that makes this remote village such a nice place to live.

photo credit: spbutterworth

I’ve wanted to add this feature to my blog for a long time. I’ve just found a new Word Press plugin that creates a pop-up printer-friendly version of any of my posts. So–if you want to print one of my free patterns or recipes, or techniques, you don’t have to print all of the sidebar stuff… PrintFriendly also allows you to remove all images, and it also allows you to delete parts of the post you don’t need before you print (like intro text if all you want is a recipe or a pattern). To use it, just click on the green PrintFriendly button at the bottom of any of my posts. After you print, the plugin shows you some innocuous text ads before directing you back to the web page you were on. I think that’s totally worth the convenience of quickly printing off a recipe or pattern. PrintFriendly also has a browser button so you can apparently use the feature on any web page, even if the owner doesn’t have the plugin installed.

photo credit: indi.ca

I’m writing this in my text editor because a Russian satellite has apparently drifted from its proper orbit and it’s messing with our Internet access here in the cloudy, rainy North. Sound like a conspiracy? Maybe. But usually this time of year there’s something interfering with our communications. Sun spots. Storms. Brown outs. This time, a wayward satellite. Nothing surprises me anymore.

Two books came in the mail yesterday, and I wanted to share them with you.

The first is Gifted: Lovely Little Things to Knit and Crochet, by Mags Kandis. Mags is co-owner and former creative director of Mission Falls yarns. Although the subtitle of says “lovely little things to knit and crochet,” the book also has small felting and sewing projects. In fact, half the projects involve some kind of felting or fulling. The designs are small—intended to be made quickly for gift giving. There are even a pair of upcycled arm warmers made from a thrifted sweater. The sleeves are felted, then trimmed and embroidered for a pretty chill-stopping gift. I love the “Weekend Socks,” They’re Norwegian sweater-inspired footwear in a light blue grey and white with bright contrasting red toes and heels.

Mags doesn’t shy away from bright colors, and her choices shine in projects like “Baby’s First Felted Feet,” tiny felted slippers with needle-felted polkadot embellishments. I was surprised to discover that there are recipes like “Ginger Syrup,” “Tomato Jam,” and Mexican Hot Chocolate Mix sprinkled throughout the book as well. If Gifted is a nice collection for the versitile crafter who loves little felting projects. I were simply a crocheter who did not knit, I would pass on this book because there are only 6 crochet projects—one is a show stopper: a lovely patchwork felted granny bag. Instead I would buy Kim Werker’s Crocheted Gifts, also from Interweave which is a beautiful collection of crochet accessories and home projects to make and give.

Perhaps this is the time of year to be releasing “gifty” books.The other craft book in my mail box today is from Potter Craft, titled, Simply Sublime Gifts: High-Style, Low-Sew Projects to Make in a Snap, by Jodi Kahn. One of the practical fun things about this book is the “Supply Closet.” A list at the beginning of the book that tells you the basics you’ll need for completing projects. Of course, there are specific materials for some projects not listed here, but it’s a great way to make sure you’ve got the essentials.

These are “low-sew” and “no-sew” projects using iron on transfers glue and other fun crafty materials to embellish things you buy at the store. The first project is a set of pretty linen towels made by using ink-jet iron on transfers and a repeating design you create with wrapping paper. There are some tricky substitutes for sewing like a little pouch made with washcloths, duct tape and staples.

Jodi loves unusual materials, like the shammies she used to make baby jammies, and the notebooks made out of cereal boxes. Some of them verge on the ridiculous, like the “fabric cans” with screen printed Campbell’s soup labels. My favorite project might just be the shopping bag upcycled from a pillow case. Not only does Simply Sublime Gifts have some fun-to-make project ideas, it also provides some creative inspiration—once you’ve learned how to transfer images from your computer onto fabric, and “sew” with duct tape and staples, you could go on to invent your own gift ideas.

I’m heading to Wisconsin and Kansas in a couple of weeks for a little vacation with the kids, and for my cousin Johanna‘s wedding to her fiancé Ryan. (Aren’t they cute?)

It is still quite hot, I understand, “down south,” (i.e. anywhere south of Alaska), so I’ll be bringing my Hemp Shawlette:

It’s soft, but not warm, like even a lacy shawl made in wool would be, and it covers the shoulders well. The shawl is crocheted top down in “raglan” style–meaning that there are four increase points. The shaping means that the shawl fits nicely on your shoulders.

I designed this shawl for Lana Knits using their lovely Allhemp6, a lightweight, soft hemp designed for garments. It works up quickly with treble v-stitches and a simple edging. I haven’t decided what I’m wearing at the wedding yet… but I do know I’ll wear the shawl. And now you can make one too, I’ve just listed the pattern for sale.

$6.00

I’ve been dreaming up squares lately for a blanket for the book. I want something solid probably just two colors. When you’re crocheting a traditional granny square, you’re working completely in chain spaces, not stitches:

I wanted a solid square, it’s not quite as simple as filling in the chain spaces with stitches. You have to back up and think of what the granny square is, essentially. It’s a circle (with corners). When working a flat circle in crochet, you begin with a certain number of stitches, and increase evenly that same number of stitches each round. Hats and other flat circles often begin with 6 or eight stitches. A granny square begins with 12. Each round is an increase of 12 stitches (i.e. 12, 24, 36, etc).

So, in a solid granny, you can get that 12 stitches in a number of ways. One would be to reduce the number of stitches at the corners to 3 instead of the traditional 6 plus the chain space. This works, but I found it didn’t look “corner-y” enough for my taste. Better, it turned out, to work 5 stitches in the corner, and skip the two stitches on either side of the corner when working around. Or, as I did below–keep the corners “normal” and decrease elsewhere in the square to even things out.

In my swatches, I was playing with the idea of taking a square and tipping it 45 degrees. I wanted to make sure I didn’t flatten out the corner of the inner square so I used decreases at those points instead of “rounding out” the square by adding fewer stitches. Here’s a more complete version of that idea:

I like this square a lot, but it’s not what I needed for the blanket, so I’ll keep it for future use, or maybe just write up the pattern for the square itself.

My mind has also been on spirals lately. I’ll post again soon about my spiral-square (or square-spiral) experiments.